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Всичко за CASE MOD-a

#1
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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Здравейте всички, захващам се да пиша тема с всевъзможни неща за CASE MOD-а. Надявам се да стане важна, за сега ще копирам някои неща, които писах в друг форум...

За сега статийте са на английски, но DiDoriginal каза, че може да се захване да ги превежда. Ако някой от вас е навит, нямам никакви възражения :) И също така се надявам този път (това е втората ми тема за кейс мод) темата да стане важна :)

http://www.case-mod....store/index.php

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/

DOOM III Case mod:
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http://www.casemodgod.com/

Сега ще започна да пускам разни How-to's.


---------------------------
Редакция на статус:
Drakaris

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#2
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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"Alien Inferno" LED Fan Flame Mod

First off, I need to say thanks to my friend Troy for not letting me give up on this mod until it was absolutely right (anal). The flame mod went through no less than five revisions and was a project in the making for a good amount of time, many ideas were swapped back and forth on how best to make a simulated flame and the end result is entirely worth the time invested. The finished mod compliments the alien theme of the case, it looks like an other worldly flame and really sets off the entire top of the case.

If your case does not have a top blowhole then the first step to doing this mod is cutting one. For the hole shown below an 80mm hole saw was used, a Dremel would also work but is the long way to do it. After your hole is cut you should file the edges smooth. Notice that there is also a fan grill ring on top of the blowhole, I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the center from an alien fan grill I had lying around and then filed the edges where the cuts were made.

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For the fan flame mod I used 2 80mm Cooler Master blue fans, one I cut the guts out of so it would act as a funnel for the other fan. To light it all up I used four Laser LED Cannons, two blue and two green.

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After trying a few different types of cloth with mixed results I finally found one that worked well, silk. The flames were cut free hand and if you look closely you can see the slits that were cut to connect them together, one down the middle on the top of one and the other up the bottom. I affixed a small piece of Velcro to the bottom corners of both pieces of silk, these will hold the cloth in place. I also used a small amount of white tape on the slits to keep both pieces of silk connected and also to add a small amount of support to the flame.

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I screwed the blank fan frame to the Coolermaster LED fan, making note of the airflow direction (it has to blow out) and then removed the LED cannons from their clips. I drilled a small hole into each clip and attached one to each corner of the fan as shown in the picture below. The cloth flames were then attached to the inside of the funnel in an X pattern using the aforementioned Velcro tabs.

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Since I wanted to be able to turn the fan and LED's on and off independent of each other I hooked up a couple on/off switches in the front of my case where the USB ports would normally be. Front mounting the switches makes the best sense because reaching behind the PC to turn things on/off blows, and since the front USB ports aren't hooked up or used it winds up being an excellent way to stealth them.

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To eliminate wiring clutter I removed the Molex ends from the LED cannons and wired them all together and used heat shrink to keep everything neat. In the picture below you can see the yellow wire going to the LED cannons, it was pre-wired to the switch used and is not a 12v line... LED cannons are 5v and we don't want anyone getting confused and burning up a bunch of LED's... unless they are the type to only look at the pictures and not read the guide, to them we say "have fun" (but they never hear us because they don't read).

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Below shows the fan with the LED cannons connected, the fan grill was added as an afterthought... hearing what an LED cannon caught in an 80mm fan sounds like motivates afterthought. The grill also prevents the wiring or anything else getting caught up in the fan, which is important if you poke around in your case a lot.

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Adjust the LED cannons so that they shine up through the fan and onto the silk and then position it inside the top of the case. Screw everything down and plug the fan and LED cannons into their respective Molex ends. Mouse over the picture below to see how good it looks in the dark.

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I also took a short video of the alien inferno fan flame in action because a still picture cannot do this mod justice. Please right click and choose "save target as" instead of streaming it directly, see the fan mod in action here. Below is a close up of the flame taken at night with no flash, pretty sweet.

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The alien inferno fan flame mod is something that most modders should have little trouble recreating if they follow the above guide. I am entirely happy with the way this turned out and everyone that has seen it agrees that it does a fine job of imitating flames coming out of the top of my case. I estimate the complete cost of this mod at under $25 USD, not bad for how cool the effect is.

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#3
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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Fan Control Makeover Mod

There are a lot of really cool bay devices on the market, whether they have a finish similar to your case or are completely different - as in the case of the Zalman fan controller - if you want a perfect match there is only one thing you can do. This guide will show you how to do it with an easy way to make a non-matching bay device match your case perfectly.

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The victim.
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Tools and Materials


- Nibbler
- Variable Speed Drill
- 17/64, 13/64 & 1/8 Bits
- Round Hobby Files
- Rubber Cement
- Masking Tape


The first thing you will need to do is disassemble the bay device and get some measurements of the hole sizes, for this I used a drill bit sizing guide. The hole sizes are 17/64, 13/64 and 1/8, since I only had a 1/8 bit on hand I had to make a run to the hardware store. If you want your mod to come out looking professionally fabricated you must use the proper size drill bits, if you don't it will come out looking half assed.

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Next you will need to prepare a drive bay cover by removing the side tabs, I prefer to use a nibbler for this because it's easier to keep the line straight and also little risk of marring the finish. If you have never used a nibbler before I will tell you that it doesn't take out a very big bite at a time, the pile in the bottom right corner of the picture below shows the size and amount of the material removed so far. I then filed down the rough edges where I removed the sides.

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The original faceplate is going to be used as a drilling template and rubber cement might not be the best thing to use for this next step, but it works. Apply a thin coat to the back of the faceplate and a thin coat to the front of the bay cover, let it dry completely and then carefully position one atop the other and press it down. Double sided scotch tape would probably work to hold it together as well. I also used some masking tape to makes sure things didn't slide around on me when drilling.

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I carefully drilled the holes making sure to keep the drill bit straight up and down, take care when drilling not to rock the bit or you will risk cracking the template or incorrectly drilling your hole. When all the holes are drilled take off the masking tape, separate the two pieces and clean off the rubber cement residue.

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Since the original blue acrylic faceplate was thicker than the Lian-Li bay cover I used a small lock washer on each screw to make up for the difference in thickness. I put everything back together, cracked a beer and admired my handiwork.

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The Zalman ZM-MFC1 has been transformed from something ordinary into something awesome with a mod that took just over an hour to do.

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And finally here is another shot of the finished product.

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#4
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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Fan Control Makeover Mod

There are a lot of really cool bay devices on the market, whether they have a finish similar to your case or are completely different - as in the case of the Zalman fan controller - if you want a perfect match there is only one thing you can do. This guide will show you how to do it with an easy way to make a non-matching bay device match your case perfectly.

Публикувано изображение

The victim.
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Tools and Materials


- Nibbler
- Variable Speed Drill
- 17/64, 13/64 & 1/8 Bits
- Round Hobby Files
- Rubber Cement
- Masking Tape


The first thing you will need to do is disassemble the bay device and get some measurements of the hole sizes, for this I used a drill bit sizing guide. The hole sizes are 17/64, 13/64 and 1/8, since I only had a 1/8 bit on hand I had to make a run to the hardware store. If you want your mod to come out looking professionally fabricated you must use the proper size drill bits, if you don't it will come out looking half assed.

Публикувано изображение

Next you will need to prepare a drive bay cover by removing the side tabs, I prefer to use a nibbler for this because it's easier to keep the line straight and also little risk of marring the finish. If you have never used a nibbler before I will tell you that it doesn't take out a very big bite at a time, the pile in the bottom right corner of the picture below shows the size and amount of the material removed so far. I then filed down the rough edges where I removed the sides.

Публикувано изображение

The original faceplate is going to be used as a drilling template and rubber cement might not be the best thing to use for this next step, but it works. Apply a thin coat to the back of the faceplate and a thin coat to the front of the bay cover, let it dry completely and then carefully position one atop the other and press it down. Double sided scotch tape would probably work to hold it together as well. I also used some masking tape to makes sure things didn't slide around on me when drilling.

Публикувано изображение

I carefully drilled the holes making sure to keep the drill bit straight up and down, take care when drilling not to rock the bit or you will risk cracking the template or incorrectly drilling your hole. When all the holes are drilled take off the masking tape, separate the two pieces and clean off the rubber cement residue.

Публикувано изображение

Since the original blue acrylic faceplate was thicker than the Lian-Li bay cover I used a small lock washer on each screw to make up for the difference in thickness. I put everything back together, cracked a beer and admired my handiwork.

Публикувано изображение

The Zalman ZM-MFC1 has been transformed from something ordinary into something awesome with a mod that took just over an hour to do.

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And finally here is another shot of the finished product.

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#5
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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PSU Cover Guide

*CAUTION* : This mod does require you to remove the cover from the power supply unit. Be very careful. If the capacitors were to discharge you may damage the PSU and yourself.


Ok here I was staring at my PC one day. It had a fairly nice Power Supply Unit (PSU) that has Blue LEDs already installed. The outside looked much like any other standard PSU and I wanted to bring the PSU up to date on the color scheme of my system. After looking around I decided that a replacement cover would do the trick. There are many different colors to choose from. Just look around to find the best price.

Below is what came in the box. The cover with a 92mm hole, 1 plastic tie wrap, and some sticky pads and of course the instructions.

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My PSU in all its wonderfully plain glory. BLAH! I had already done the cable sleeving mod to it but you can see it still needed to be dressed up.

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Warranty! What stinking warranty…. I MUST MOD!

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I was surprised on how dusty it was on the inside, even though I spray it out with air about every two weeks.

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Here is a close up of the dirt, dust and filth.

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Boy was I not impressed with how they did the LED mod in the PSU. They must have taken PSUs that were already put together and just hacked them in.

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Below is a picture of the PSU in its d

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Always test fit the parts before you do anything, this way you can see if there are any changes to be made or any other mods you would like to do to it.

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Make sure everything is even all the way around, visually inspect all sides.

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If you’re not sure what size drill bit to use take a scrap piece of wood and drill some holes into. Test fit the screw into each of the holes you drilled. Choose the best fitting one. You do not want a hole that is too large and the head of the screw just barely covers it. Doing so could cause the plastic to crack or break when you tighten the screws down.

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Support the plastic with your scrap piece of wood. This will give you a solid backing while drilling into the plastic. The last thing you want to do is crack your brand new cover.

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Drill slowly and straight...

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Tip: Do not tighten down each screw as you put them in.
Start each screw into a hole a few threads and make sure they all line up correctly. This will allow for any slight adjustments if needed. Once you a satisfied how it looks, tighten the screws down.

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Here is the final product. I painted the rest of the metal to really finish off the mod. I must say this made a very big difference and only took a few hours to do.

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#6
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Ще взема да се включа с един доста интересен мод който мисля да пробвам!
Beyond the case mod, way beyond

So you like modifying computer cases? So do we, but instead of drilling holes and windows out of our computer cases to install cold cathodes, fans and plexiglass, we simply left the case away this time.

NeuHausPlatz Computer Systems is proud to announce:

The NHP 200NC, a lightweight caseless PC the world has never seen before.

The features:

Total cost: 68.- (CHF) around 40$ US.

Specs:

Elite P5HX mainboard (4x PCI, 5x ISA, 4 RAM slots, Socket 7) (Intel 430 HX chipset)
Intel Pentium MMX CPU at 200MHz
72MB DRAM (72pin)
Miro Crystal S20 2MB Graphics card (S3 chipset)
Monster3D Voodoo1 4MB 3D accelerator in PCI slot
ES688 AudioDrive ISA sound card 16bit stereo
SMC 10Mbit Ethernet card ISA
540MB IBM DALA 3540 IDE harddisk
NEC 1.44MB Floppy Disk Drive
4x UMAX IDE CD-ROM
External IDE HD connector
GhostLED™ LEDs
360° PU foam casing
Only 6.6kg weight
floats on water (however,isn't 100% waterproof)
low operating noise
included CD case to store and carry your favorite CDs
Build time: 2 days
People involved: 2 (thanks to Wemblie for parts and help)
We've all seen them: modded cases, beautiful, carefully handcrafted to point x and back.
But they're all heavy, rectangular and following a 20 year old de-facto standard.
We wanted to change this and thought about a way how to transform a lab computer (just the parts put together, no case (as seen in testing labs at various websites)) into a portable shape.
Duct-tape is a possibility, but not really stable and resistant. PU foam (polyurethan foam) proved to be the ideal working material. It comes in cans and can be sprayed onto or into everything you want.
It expands by a factor of 0-60 and dries to a semi-hard foam, similar to Styropor™ after about 3 hours.
It's heat resistant up to 100°C and more or less in-flammable (ie. fireproof). It's also waterproof, non conductive and -and that's really important- it's light.

So I bought 3 cans of 750ml PU foam, and assembled the above PC on a small table, tested and configured it, installed Windows 98SE and covered the hot and mechanical parts with paper and cardboard, so the foam would not glue it together or prevent air from reaching the CPU.

After this, all I had to do was spray PU foam all over the computer and let it dry.

Once everything was dry, just cut out the connectors again with a sharp knive, make sure the drives can open and close, and cut out a hole for the air intake. That's pretty straight forward, isn't it? No screws, no sheet metal, no plexi.

last but not least, fire it up again and see if it still works. It does.

Now I have a 6.6kg computer, fully featured and ideal for playing older games like Quake or to take to a LAN party, connect a 40GB IDE drive on the external connector, hook it up in the LAN and leech as many pr0n movies as you can. You gotta love that computer that looks like a hybrid between a sheep and a Meringue.

Of course I could also paint it to a little more decent color, but ugliness is what really makes this comp special.
Nobody is going to believe me this is a comp in May at lanforce 3 .

Disclaimer: DON'T do this at home kids, any modern CPU or GPU will generate too much heat to remain operable in such tight and highly isolated environments such as a PU-foam case. Don't imitate that experiment with parts you care about. I could only do this because it didn't matter whether it worked in the end or not. The computer can't be taken apart anymore, nor can it be upgraded. Make sure everything works, before you finish. All actions are performed at YOUR own risk, and I am not responsible for any damage you do to your comp, your clothes or your health.

Now for the pics:

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A few Polaroids of the processing. Top right is how it looked before we began.
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This is how it looks when it's finished.

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Here again for those with bad eyes
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That's the handy handle.
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...by which you can carry the computer.
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An included CD case makes for easy moving.
........
Продължението тук иначе поста ще стане мн дълъг!
http://www.g-news.ch...icles/nhp200nc/
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#7
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Такаа... :) Ето и mod-инг по джоба на всеки!!! :)
Като пример и снимки показвам своята собствена кутия!

1) Изрязване на страничния капак:

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http://blaser.hit.bg/ - Цена - 1.80лв. (толкова ми взеха по зададените от мен размери!!!).

2) Поставяне на плексиглас или стъкло! :twisted:

Да, стъкло!! Както можете да видите на кутията ми има дупки (все още обмислям как да ги скрия) през които последно минаваха нитовете закрепващи плексигласа. НО има няколко (-) - наелектризира се и полепва много прах по него; при поставянето се напуква около нитовете и при всяко малко огъване на капака продължава!

Махнах плексигласа и поставих стъкло. Стъкларя ми взе 3 лв. за огледалото и стъклото (стъклото се води "Супер прозрачно" - поне той така ми обясни - без неравности, пречуващи образа). Огледалото играе ролята на отразител на светлината от неон-а - връща я към кутията! Повярвайте - има ефект!
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Самото закрепване на стъклото и огледалото става посредством прозрачен силикон - няма мърдане. При това връзката е "мека" и няма опастност стъклото да се напука или счупи - пробвано е! :?:

3) Привеждане на кутията в приличен вид!

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При прозрачен капак бъркотията вътре в PC-то излиза наяве! Поради тази причина вържете на снопове и скрийте кабелите от видимата част на капака! Аз си играх около 2 часа - но ефекта е поразителен!! :twisted:

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4) Избор на NEON-ова или UV лампа!

Това решение всеки взема индивидуално! Цената варира - 10-15лв. най-често! В подкрепа на UV лампите ще кажа че има специални UV отразяващи вентилатори с поразяващ ефект!! :twisted: Подобно на светещите вентилатори, но по-красиво! Също така има и UV отразяващи кръгли IDE кабели - 7лв./брой - отново красота!! :)

5) Допълителни глезотийки!

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Като допълнителни екстри аз съм сложил Round IDE cables - един UV отразяващ и един фосфорециращ - след загасянето на PC-то свети в меко зелено - много приятно! Друго което направих беше да сменя светодиодите за Power и HDD индикация - от зелен и червен, съответно на ЯРКО СИН и ЯРКО ЧЕРВЕН - много добре стана! :)

Като заключение ще кажа че имам още идеи и ще ги споделя в най-скоро време! :P Надявам се 40 минутното ми писане да ви е от полза!!! :?: :) :) :)

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#8
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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Project PC Rescue


Do you remember the last time you had a problem with your computer and you were pretty sure that it was that old and worn out video card? Now the only way to really test it is to install it into another system. You could always ask your buddy to put it in his or sneak it into your parent’s computer while they are away and hope nothing goes wrong. Yeah like that would happen. Then there's the friend that is not as technical as you and needs some one to check out his system, at his house, only to come and find out that it’s a hardware problem with no way to test it.

Most of you know that a test board is really a PC laid out on something so you can have access to everything. That is why I made up the PC Rescue portable test board. I had some pieces and parts from old systems lying around and thought it would be great to have a portable Test Board. I would need something that I could carry, yet with easy access to all the components so that they could be swapped out at will.

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What I used:
An old Asus motherboard with a 1gig CPU
TNT2 Video card
Floppy drive
CDR
Speaker
On/Off button
Compact 230watt PSU
Memory
1 HDD
Old plastic drill case
Knoppix CD
Hiren’s Boot CD

So I need something that would be portable but open up like a book. GOT IT! I remembered that I had this old plastic case that a now broken drill came in. How lucky could I get! It even has a way to lock it closed. It seems too be big enough but will it hold everything? After doing some dry fitting with the parts I decided that it would work, but because it folds in half it presented some challenges. Anyway, it was the only thing I had to work with.

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I don’t know about you but to me the greenish color did not look good and did not fit the theme I was looking for. Now white would be better for the “PC Rescue“ but the box is made plastic. I have yet to try the new paints that say they will work on plastics so I guess now is going to be a good time to try some. The paint I picked out said that there was no need to use a primer. The instructions say to clean it and wipe it down with alcohol. Sounds simple enough to do. I gave it a quick coat and let it dry for a few hours then I gave it a second coat. As you can see in the pictures it looks pretty nice. So far so good.

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The box, freshly painted

So through my dry fit testing I figured out that the mother board was going to have to go on one side by itself, everything else would have to go on the other side. Looking at a few of the mother boards that I have I decided to use the holes that seem to be the most common, this way I could swap out the mother board in case it was the item that needed to be tested. Using some # 8 screws and nuts I put them though the lid of the case and put some rubber around the screws for stand offs.

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Here I am trying to pin point how I really have to lay everything out. During this process I found out that the paint did not stick as well as it said it would. Scratches were pretty easy to do to the paint. If this was not meant to be a portable item then I think the paint would have held up. I made a few brackets out of some pieces of aluminum to hold the CDR and Floppy in place and one for the HD’s. The HD bracket holds one drive to the case while tabs allow another one to rest on top without having to screw it down.

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A place for everything...

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Parts tin holds accessories, below it Knoppix*

Now for the final touch. I’m lucky enough that I have access to a machine that can make simple stickers to make signs. Here I am applying the PC Rescue lettering to the case.

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Laying down the lettering

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Is there a Doctor in the house?

*The following are the most important parts of this project and are things that everyone should have... test board or not.

The Knoppix CD
Get it here: KNOPPIX CD
From the KNOPPIX site:
“KNOPPIX is a bootable CD with a collection of GNU/Linux software, automatic hardware detection, and support for many graphics cards, sound cards, SCSI and USB devices and other peripherals. KNOPPIX can be used as a Linux demo, educational CD, rescue system, or adapted and used as a platform for commercial software product demos. It is not necessary to install anything on a hard disk. Due to on-the-fly decompression, the CD can have up to 2 GB of executable software installed on it.”
This works GREAT! You do not even need a HDD for this to work! It works out of a ram disk in memory. When I had my HD crash I was able to still get onto the Internet to keep up with the stuff going on at CaseModGod. It is a huge download, 700 plus MB, so that would be out of the question for modem users... so get your broadband buddy to DL it for you.

The best part of all, IT'S FREE!

The Hirens’ Boot CD
Link: Main site
This has everything you can think of. Partition tools, Cloning tools, Anti virus, Recovery tools, Testing tools, Hard Disk tools and the list just goes on and on. It’s only a 32MB ISO file. Another great must have CD.

The best part of all, IT'S FREE!

The Ultimate Boot CD (I have not used this one, yet)
Link: Main site
Ultimate Boot CD runs independently of any operating system. It will boot from any Intel-compatible machine, regardless of whether DOS/Windows/Linux/BeOS is installed on the machine. This one is just like the Hirens’ CD but with different software.

The best part of all, IT'S FREE!

Conclusion:

Doing this mod was fun and easy to do. I know that most of you have junk lying around and do not know what to do with it. You do not need the latest and greatest stuff to make a test setup. Once you do make it and have to use it for the first time you will be glad you did it. Even if you do not make a test board I highly recommend that you at least DL the software that I mentioned.


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#9
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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Custom Fan Grills

The Eye Of Ra. A mod based on an Egyptian theme with a custom side panel cut out, great idea... but when you cut out your window what do you do with the scrap piece that you removed? Well, if you are an inspired modder you use it as fan grill material. The picture of the window panel below shows the four quad LED illuminated fans through it, the grills will be custom cut, painted and installed onto them.

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Phase I :

If you have a themed mod, such as this, it will be important to find images that suit the mod and fit within the shape of the grill. When you are satisfied with your image selections you will need to use image editing software to crop and then line up the image with the outline of the 80mm fan grill. Orion's mod is Egyptian themed, so the Ankh and Eye of Ra images are very fitting. Below is also a template for an 80mm fan grill, click on it to open the full size version and then save it for use in creating your own custom grills. The template lines up perfect with the fan's screw holes and 80mm edge cut out and should at least provide a starting point for creating your own custom fan grills.

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Below are examples of test fitting the cropped images onto the outline of the grills, the template provided above is different from Orions outline design but it can be modified and the end result is really all that matters. Notice that the images appear detailed and yet at the same time are actually fairly simple, there is a reason for it and this next section will truly test your meddle as a modder.

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For this part you are going to have to trust in the advice of Vivio as there are no progress pictures of the grill cutting procedure, but anyone that has hands nicknamed "laser cut" has a good idea how to do this type of thing and any advice given helps... Here Is Vivio's advice on cutting your grills...

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"First of all, the main tools are a Dremel, drill, spear-head file, flat-head file and half-sphere file. Besides newspaper and sticky tape.

1) Draft the figure of the fan grill and the pattern design on the aluminum plate.

2) First of all, drill the four holes for the screws of the fan grill
(please be reminded that the holes should be drilled BEFORE cutting out the grill from the plate. It is because a reverse order of the above processes will result a deformation of the grill).

3) Cut out the pattern design ONLY of the grill by the dremel
(wearing a goggle and a dust mask is highly recommended).

4) File the pattern and refine it BEFORE cutting out the whole grill from the plate

5) Finally, file the sides of the grill
(please note that careless filing will lead to deformation of the grill) "


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Above are the (nearly) finished products, all bright, shiny and freshly cut... they look ready for some custom painting action.


Preparation:

First of all, apply a thin layer of Mr. Metal Primer on the painting surface of the grills. Let it completely air dry before color painting.

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Three brushes were enough for me in this fan grill painting project.

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Make sure to prepare a super fine brush

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Painting Materials:

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The paints for the fan grills.

I used Mr. Color as the paints which are made in Japan are not expensive, HK$10 for each bottle (less than 1 pound for each). If you cannot find this brand, any other brand can be ok, they are simply the paints for models. Some of the paints are significant in my project...

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Apart from Gold, there is metallic super silver, metallic blue, metallic green,

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fluorescent yellow, white (vital and very useful) and black.

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Other options, metallic red and there is also a metallic yellow (but it was out of stock, so yellow was better than none), and copper

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To prepare a bottle of thinner for the paint is also highly recommended.

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Now that you know what you need let's move on to what you do...
Painting Tips:

This next part was taken from a forum conversation between Orion and ^_Evil_Den_^, in it the use of model paints as a brushed on medium is discussed as well as some of the characteristics of the grill painting technique used by Orion.

Quote:

That's the problem
It is not suggested to use MrColor to do handpainting
As you tried it , you would know it "dry out" pretty fast , much faster than you could finish the job

And as i can see on the photo
The color is not thin enough
You look painting it directly without adding thinner

You have to spread something(i forget the name) on its surface to protect it from dust.
As time pass, the dust would be "eaten" into color, you can never get the dust out of the color unless you repaint it



Thanks ^_Evil_Den_^ for your opinions very much, you must be a very experienced model painter all of the points you pointed out were true. Yet, a fast dry paint like Mr Color suited me in this project because I was applying some other paint skills which needed a thick paint to provide a rough and raw antique handcraft feel of the grills. Therefore, I used less thinner and did not apply the protective layer for the paints. Thank you for your comments.

Finished Product:

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The next series of pictures serve to highlight the use of UV paints within the design, the first picture shows the painted fan grill under normal light and mousing over the image shows how they look under UV lighting.

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Completely in his own words Orion walks you through what went into the painting of his custom fan grills, "Orion is not a painter, I did not even know any painting theory. Yet, I counted on my eyes, my hands and my feelings.

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For the fan grills of the theme case - the Eye Of Ra, I adopted basically the skill of water color painting. As I wanted the grills look more antique and metallic, I applied thick layers of the paints which came out a slightly feel of the oil painting. I mixed up colors in various degrees to give rainbow effect. To apply fluorescent paint was in an attempt to balance the dull and rough metallic feels of the paintings.

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I hoped it overall bore spirits of each of the grills, especially the Eye of Ra fan grill. I hoped that the Eye looks alive, with feelings and minds. I hoped the sacred scarab looks three dimensional on the base of a 2d surface, and further to four dimensional with the spirit laid on it. I hoped the Ankh looks shiny by itself with the supersilver paint radiating from its center since it represented eternal life. Besides, I hoped it looks like stained glass or jade stone with jade-green paints on its body. Blue and Green was also the main theme of the Orion fan grill, I tried to give it a cloudy paint look effect since it is a constellation with rich nebulae which gave birth to new stars.

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These were the concepts and/or the forces which helped me to go through the paint work of the fan grills. I am still not sure if I have achieved these goals, but I am glad that most of the friends in different forums like them, thank you for each of your compliments and your comments on the grills."

HAPPY MODDING!

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#10
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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Ето и един от по-интересните кейс-модове :Р

Toaster PC Mod


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How-To article written by Adam. aka AdamB29 - CMG guide writer

Introduction:

This is the first computer that I have ever built. When I first looked into building a computer I wanted the best, fastest computer I could possibly build. Then I looked into the price of the components and WOW! that stuff is expensive. I priced out a P4 2.8 and the processor alone was $380 U.S. Dollars! The entire system was going to cost in excess of $1,900 U.S. Dollars. Well, I do not make that much money so I decided to put the computer building on hold for a year or two in order to save up.

About this time my wife came to me and asked to replace our old PII tower computer in the kitchen (she has several cookbooks, gets recipes online, etc…). Now let me tell you that not only is this tower computer huge, it is U-G-L-Y. I don’t even think it would fit underneath the kitchen cabinets, and don’t even ask about the 6 year old 15” monitor!

Now, when I explained all of this to one of my co-workers he suggested a Mini-ITX system. I had never heard of this, but when he told me about how small it was, its capabilities, and its price, I thought “wunderbar” this is it!
Since my wife wanted it for the kitchen I thought to disguise it as a kitchen appliance. My co-worker and I kicked around a few ideas but I finally decided on a toaster. It had the internal space required and looks good too. I then got on the Internet to find out more about what computer components to buy and I found this site, www.mini-itx.com. I was kind of bummed to see that a few people had built a toaster before, but I figured “What the hell”, I have never built a toaster, original or not!

Hardware:

1. GE 4 Slot chrome toaster
2. Via M9000 Motherboard
3. 40GB Hard Drive
4. 512MB DDR RAM
5. Panasonic 4x slim DVD
6. Sparkle 150W Power Supply
7. Hauppauge USB TV Card
8. Netgear wireless 802.11 Network Card
9. Gyration Ultra cordless mouse and keyboard
10. KDS Rad5-c 15" flat panel monitor

The Project:

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The first thing I had to do was locate a toaster. I really wanted a 2-slot toaster, but found that everything I wanted to add to this system would not fit. So I purchased a GE 4-slot chrome toaster.

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The next step was to remove the base.

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With the base off of the toaster I then had to remove the toasting heater box.

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Here you can see the left over toaster guts. I had to save the flat piece in the front. This is what holds the top of the toaster together and connects the base to the whole assembly.

The Project, Continued:

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Here are the holes I have cut in the backside of the toaster. Starting from the top left: Power cord for PSU, Fan cut out for PSU, and the round hole is for the USB TV Card. On the bottom we have the cutout for the motherboard, and the 2 holes on the right are for the wireless 802.11 NIC and its LED.

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Now we can start to assemble the computer. I purchased Lexan acrylic sheets for my computer as it bends when cold. I cut the Lexan with a jigsaw using a very fine tooth blade at a low speed. The Lexan is hard to bend, but once the bend is started it moves very easily. In this picture you can see the motherboard tray (bottom shelf), the Hard Drive holder (vertical supports in back), the DVD tray (vertical support on left side), and accessory shelves (the 2 cross members that run left to right). I had to make a hump in the accessory trays so that my wireless network card would fit.

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Here we see my brand new Via M9000 motherboard installed with the power switch, Hard Drive LED, and Power LED in the background.

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This is the motherboard and Hard Drive installed in the Lexan cage.

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This is my obligatory size comparison shot. These are my daughter’s wooden blocks and in the background you can see a power outlet.

The Project, Continued:

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Here I have added the DVD drive and connected the Hard Drive (copper cable) and the USB backplate (gray cables that run to the back of the Hard Drive). I mounted the USB backplate internally so that my USB TV Card and Wireless Keyboard and Mouse did not have to connect to the back of the computer. The backplate is attached with Velcro to the back of the Hard Drive. The Hard Drive and the DVD drive are also held in place with Velcro. To keep from mounting the DVD directly to the Lexan cage, I mounted it to some left over sheet metal, then screwed the sheet metal so some Lexan, then used Velcro and zip ties to hold the DVD drive in place. You can also see the Netgear wireless 802.11 NIC installed.

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Now I have added the PSU and WinTV USB Card. The DVD, PSU, and TV Card are for illustration purposes only. These 3 items will have to come off of the Lexan cage in order to install the cage in the toaster. After the cage is in place, the TV Card will be installed, followed by the PSU, and lastly the DVD drive. Then I will close up that side of the toaster. You can also tell by looking at these pictures that we are looking at the back end of the computer. The Hard Drive is actually at the front end of the computer / toaster.

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Now the final component has been added. The dark blue box is the receiver for my Gyration wireless keyboard and mouse. When the toaster is completed you will be able to reach inside the toast slot and raise the antenna (if needed) and push the connect switch (the light blue button on the top of the dark blue box).

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This is why I have been showing pictures from the backside of the computer. This picture is not very interesting as all you can see is the back of the DVD drive and the back of the Hard Drive. The silver cable is the slim DVD’s IDE connection. You can also see the USB backplate on the left side of the picture, directly behind the Hard Drive. Obviously all of these cables will be cleaned up when the Lexan cage is installed inside the toaster.

The Project, Finished:

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Whew! Everything fits!!!!! I did leave out a few steps, but they involved the installation of components shown on the previous pages, only the installation occurred inside the toaster instead of on the countertop. The only things left to do, are close up this side of the toaster, use my dremel tool to cut off the excess screws, and replace the base.

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Here it is, all the components installed and the toaster put back together again.

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Here is the backside of the toaster with everything installed.

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And here we are, the completed computer. You can see the antenna for the Gyration wireless keyboard and mouse sticking out of the top of the toaster. This antenna can go up and down when the computer is on or off. The monitor is wall mountable and will be mounted on a 1x4 that will swing down from under the cabinets. The monitor is in its final position, only it will swing down from the cabinet directly above it. By putting the keyboard and mouse in a drawer and swinging the monitor up when not in use, you will never know that there is a computer in the kitchen (just please do not put pop-tarts in it!).


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#11
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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DIY Heat Sink Fan Spacer/Funnel
Ето един по-лесен мод на 2 перки, който може да бъде направен за по-малко от 5 минути :)

This how-to article will teach you how to make your own HSF spacer/funnel in about 5 minutes or less. You will actually spend more time searching for the materials than you will actually building this. It’s a simple and effective cooling mod that I am sure you'll wish you had done sooner.

Why funnel your HSF? Simple answer really. Cooling benefits. Your CPU builds up a tremendous amount of heat and relies on your heat sink and your heat sink’s fan to dissipate that heat in the most efficient way by design that it can. Now don’t get me wrong. There are a lot of excellent heat sinks and fans available that provide good cooling. This mod will enhance it. You will notice a little less noise with this mod as well, especially those of you using Deltas

Okay, so we talked about the main benefit of better cooling that this mod will provide. But you are probably asking how does this benefit come to be? Every fan on the market creates a dead spot on the top of your heat sink. The fan’s hub or motor assembly causes that dead spot by not being able to move air over that area. There is really no way for manufactures to correct this and thus, we look for our own ways around it or live with it. Since we are modders, “live with it” is not an option. By putting a spacer/funnel between your fan and heat sink, you increase the distance between the two and give air a greater chance of contacting more surface area of the heat sink. This eliminates the dead spot entirely. The increased distance, or space, also will have a slight tornado effect when passing through the tunnel and hit the heat sink with a little more force. Although the temperature decrease may not be significant or justifiable to some people, others will appreciate a 2 to 5 degree difference. Especially if you overclock and use air-cooling.

What you will need

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Original heat sink fan
Spare case fan with the same dimensions. Recycled PSU fans are great for this mod.
Wire Cutters
6/32 stove bolts long enough to go through both fans and bite into the heat sink fins for anchoring.
(won’t need the nut shown in the picture)


What You Do

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Take the spare fan you have selected and your wire cutters. First thing you need to do is remove the fan from the shell. Simply use the wire cutters to snip the braces that the hub is attached to. Snip them fairly close to the housing. The hub and blades will come out as one piece. Discard them and retain the shell for the next step.

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Here is what you should be left with after removing the hub and blades.

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Last part of building is re-assembly. The fan shell you just “made” is placed between your original heat sink fan and your heat sink. Use the stove bolts to reattach this to your heat sink. In some cases you may notice vibration noise. This can be easily solved with small rubber washers placed between the fan shell and heat sink on all 4 corners.

I recommend using higher cfm fans for this project. I have found using the Mechtronics 53cfm 80mm fan to produce excellent results. Using lower cfm fans in the low 40’s and high 30’s actually increase the temperature.

Article written by Jim Jr. aka Built Ford Tough - CMG reviewer & guide writer.

Have fun and "Mod It til It Bleeds!"

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#12
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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WOW! Не очаквах че всички тези статий ще се поберат на една страница...

Такаа...сега да навлезем малко по-навътре :)

Water Cooled GPU Guide

If you read my last article you would know that I have jumped into the water-cooling scene. The real reason I got into water-cooling was to lower the noise that my machine was emitting. 7 fans equal “What did you say? I can’t hear you! Lets go into the other room to talk”. Even after I added the water-cooling mod there was still a good amount of noise coming from my computer. After putting my ear on everything I decided it was coming from my PSU and my GF4 video card. The PSU was not too bad but the video card seemed to be putting out a high pitch sound. Suddenly I had a flashback, sometimes this happens to me, I remembered while I was looking at parts to get into water-cooling that there were some water blocks for video cards. That was the answer to my quest for peace and quiet.

There goes more of my hard earned money to my favorite hobby. Yes I am paying for my own stuff entirely out of pocket, no freebies.

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Here is the victim video card, my MSI GeForce4 Ti4400, in its almost stock state (I did add some heat sinks to the memory modules to remove heat and for the looks).

After reading some articles and looking at many Hardware sites I decided to order the SwiftTech MCW40™ cooler from Xtreme Tek Werkz. Why Xtreme Tek Werkz? Because they had a good price and it would be shipped from California, which is only one state away. I received it within a few days.

It came in a small box, just big enough to hold the water block and the extra parts. This was odd because it said on their site it came with about 3 foot of hose. I emailed Xtreme Tek Werkz about the problem, they said it was a mistake and they sent out the hose.

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Here are the contents of the box. The water block, thermal paste, hose inserts, mounting hardware and some instructions. INSTRUCTIONS! We are real men; we don’t need no stinking instructions! Well that’s what I tell my friends anyway.

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What’s in the bag you ask? Take a look...

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Everything you need to attach your new water block to the video card. You even get some thermal compound. If you have some of the good stuff use it instead.

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The block is made of a copper base and an anodized aluminum body. The copper has been lapped to a beautiful finish. What a great looking bottom. Even J-LO would be jealous.

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Here are the hose connections. This type of fitting is called “Press loc”. The fittings apply pressure to the outside hose, creating a water tight seal. You MUST use the grey plastic insert for the hoses that came in the parts bag. The fittings are for a 3/8” OD (outside diameter) hose.

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There are four pins located on each corner of the GPU cooling fan that must be removed. If you push a little on the pin from the backside of the card the pin will pop up. This will allow you to use a screwdriver or something to remove the pin completely.

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Removing the old fan from the video card.

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Thermal paste was between the GPU and fan. It almost looks like the fan was made of plastic, but I think it is chrome plated aluminum?

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I used some Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips to clean off the paste.

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Ready to install the water block. Make sure the inlet/outlet on the block is facing away from the AGP slot or you wont be able to connect the hoses. In the picture below you can see the holes that are already in the card, the water block uses these for the mounting hardware.

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The pressure screws are used on the opposite side of the GPU. Put all the screws in, but don’t tighten them until you have them all in place. Then what you should do is tighten them in an X pattern.

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The above illustration shows how the screws work. I had to draw it since my camera doesn't take very good close ups.

Here are the plastic inserts that keep the hose from collapsing and helps makes a nice tight fit into the water block fittings for no leaks. Make sure the insert is pushed all the way into the hose.

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When inserting the hose in the water block it wouldn’t hurt to put a little bit of water on end of the hose. It will make it easier to push it in. Make sure to push it all the way in until the gray insert disappears. If you don’t, it will leak. I learned that from trial and error.

All that’s left to do is give it a test run. Once you are satisfied, reinstall the video card and turn on your computer.

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Don’t it look pretty? Why yes it does. Do you know what else? The noise from my computer just lowered another notch, maybe two. I get the same performance out of the video card as I did before and I have no worries of it ever over heating. I’m not a big fan of over clocking since there is very little to gain by it anymore so I can’t tell you how much you could OC your video card with water-cooling.

This is a MUST DO for the person who has already water-cooled their CPU. Since you went that far already you may as well take the plunge. Come on in the water is fine.

Article written by Dewayne, aka American Freak - CMG reviewer & guide writer.
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#13
Потребителят е неактивен   boko 

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Water Cooling Introduction

Written by: American Freak


Water-cooling, that’s for those crazy guys trying to overclock everything! Well not anymore. Water cooling is becoming more mainstream everyday. Just go visit your favorite online Mod store and you will see a water cooling section. There are many reasons for water-cooling. The biggest reasons I wanted to try water-cooling was to lower the fan noise. It was either that or learn sign language. Being a newbie in the water cooling craze I decided that I did not want to spend $300.00 on a set up to find out that I might not like water cooling. If I do like it I can always pass on my old stuff to an extra computer or friend and then build a new water-cooling setup.

After looking around I found what I figured to be a good starting kit. I picked the Ahanix Iceberg 1. It can be found from $95-130 on the Internet. You get everything you need in the kit to install it on an AMD or Pentium CPU.

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Below is a closer look at all the parts.

(Pictures are from the Ahanix web site)

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(Reservoir is really more of a blue color)

From top left to right, aluminum water block, 80mm 27dBa fan, 150 gallons an hour pump. Bottom row, aluminum radiator, 1 quart Reservoir, 3/8 inch Silicone Hose.

Here are all the other parts with that come with the kit

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Here is a link to the main page for the cooler kit http://www.ahanix.com/iceberg.html

After taking everything out of the box and checking it out, it was time to figure out how I was going to install it. They do not send any instructions with the kit. What they did include was a paper telling you to go to a web page http://www.iceberg.com to view the online "how-to". This is really nice since I do like to see pictures on how to put things together. What would be really nice is a PDF file or something that I could print out before I have to turn off my computer to install the kit. Luckily I have more than one computer and I could refer back to the web page when needed. Once you view the online "how-to" you should be able to do the install with no problem. It is a very straightforward install, so even I should be able to do it.

Make sure you do all the normal stuff like unplug the power, ground yourself so you don’t have static electricity and etc. Also I found myself doing some "dry run" layouts of how I wanted to do the install. Remember the old carpenters rule, "measure twice, and cut once". Nothing would be worse than to have a few extra holes in your case!

Here we go, off into the wonderful world of water-cooling……I hope. You will of course need to remove your old CPU heat sink/fan (HSF) and anything that might be in the way. I already had a hole cut into the back of my case for a fan. This was a perfect place to put the new fan and radiator assembly.

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If you look at the picture of the shroud and radiator from the web site you will notice that they have the fan hole on the same side as the inlet/outlet connections. I thought that seemed to be odd. Why would I want to mount the fan on the other side and have a lot of open space around the fan? This meant that the air would be drawn in from the hole on the other side. So only about ¾ of the radiator would be used. I turned it around to get the shroud affect. See the picture below as to how I set it up.

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Looking at the bottom of the CPU water block I found that it was not a super polished finish. The picture actually makes it look better than it really is. When you look at it closely you can see what looks like machined grooves in it. But I guess that would be expected of a budget kit. I see some lapping in my future. The clip used to hold the block to the cpu/motherboard didn’t look that great either, but it did seem to do a good job and made a fairly tight fit of the water block to the CPU. I thought this would be a good time to add a CPU shim. I was thinking that it could help remove more heat from my AMD (yes I know, I know). I cleaned the bottom of the water block and the top of the CPU with alcohol before I applied a good coat of Artic Silver 3 Thermal Compound.

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The hardest part of putting the whole thing together was trying to keep the tiny thin gasket that goes around the top of the reservoir in place. After 5 minutes of struggling with it, out came the super glue. Just dab here and there to keep it in place was all I needed.

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Connecting all of the hoses was the next order of business. Looking back to their web site for help on running the hoses raised another question. The site shows that the water goes from the pump to the water block, to the radiator and then back to the pump. I would think that you would want the coolest water possible to the CPU so I routed the hoses from the pump, to the radiator, then to the CPU and back to the pump. I guess there does seem to be a lot of talk about how to run the hoses to and fro properly. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to try it both ways to see which way works best for you.

http://www.casemodgod.com/wc13.jpg/

(Completed install of the radiator and the water block.)

I bought a gallon of Distilled water, the recommended liquid, at my local grocery store. Time to fill it and test the system for leaks. I plugged in the pump and I let it run for a day, turning it on and off to see if that would affect it. This also gave me time to figure out and make an automatic pump switch. I am writing a "how-to" for this also.

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Well the time has come to try out the new cooling system. Talk about being nervous. If something would go wrong I would be out of a computer! I doubled check to make sure that the pump was running and I didn’t see any leaks.

After pushing the start button I didn’t see any sparks and the lights in the house stayed on, that was good! I jumped right in the BIOS to watch the temp from there. I didn’t see a 40-degree drop in temperature, but I did see a 10-12 degree drop at first. But as I let it run for 30 plus minutes the temp being to climb almost back to the days of my HSF. Hmmmm? I was guessing this was due to a break in period, or I had something wrong. After looking at everything it all seemed OK. So I jumped online on my second computer to find me some answers.

I read that you should use some type of additive to the to help reduce the temperatures. So I ran to a local car parts shop and got the following bottle of MAGIC fluid.

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How much do I add? Reading the directions gave me a good idea of where to start. I would add 1oz at a time and record the changes until I reached the maximum coolness. I added 1 ounce and I let it circulate for 1 hour. No change in temp. Another ounce was added and another hour went by. Again no change. OK another ounce was added. This has got to do something. WRONG! No change at all in the temp, but the green sure did look cool going thru the hoses. There is a great article about what fluid to use when water-cooling. Read it, learn it, do it! http://www.overclock...om/articles609/ I should have read this before hand; it would have saved me $8.00! I had to go to work the next day so I thought I would leave my system on so it could do its thing. Well it did its thing all right, a small water puddle had formed on my desk. #$*%!

The computer was still running and everything seemed to be ok. I turned off the computer and started to check. I found that the reservoir had cracked in 4 places! Each one had come from the corners where the screws were. I had thought as I tightened the screws down "man this is tight". I guess I found out why. Since my whole case is made of Lexan, I do know that you do not over tighten screws that go into plastic.

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This is a design flaw in the reservoir. Ahanix does give you a year warranty on the Iceberg 1 so I contacted them through Email and they did send me out a new one*. But what is that on the label? 3R SYSTEMS co., ltd http://www.3rsystem.co.kr Seems that this is who really makes the cooler system?

* My second reservoir also cracked within a week and a half after I installed it.

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I now have everything in place and running smoothly. The temps did come down some more after it ran for a while. The one thing that I really wanted was lower noise and I got it! I can actually hear my hard drives spin up and down. I didn’t know that the power supply was so noisy. I feel another mod coming on.

Before I did the mod I had 7 fans running to cool my system and my TV volume was set to 30 so I could hear it. Now after the mod and adding a video card water block (yes I’m doing an article on that to) I have only 3 fans running. All of them are at less than 3000 rpm/ 27dBa each. Oh and my TV volume is now at 20.

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Final words about the Ahanix Iceberg 1 kit.

A better reservoir is a must!

I love the low noise and better cooling!

If they would change the water block to copper I would think that it would perform much better.

** Update since I wrote this article **

My motherboard took a dump so I took it back to get a replacement. What I originally had was a version 1 and what I got back was a version 2. The newer board reads the temp right from the CPU and the older board used a sensor. My temps readings dropped alot, so I think I was getting some bad readings from the old MOBO.

I have since contacted Ahanix and have been told that there will be a new version of the Iceberg coming out sometime and I may get one to do a review.

Article written by Dewayne, aka American Freak - CMG reviewer & guide writer.
YOU NEED A THERAPIST
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Потребителят е неактивен   kozew 

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Айде и от мене малко :). Понеже вече закъснявам за работа ще постна само адреса на статията ( със снимки е ). Според мен това е кейс мода на годината ( ама дали става въпрос за 2к4 или 2к5 още не съм си го изяснил :) ).
ЛИНК
Движение ЗА интелигентен спам!
Не на старите лафове!!!
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#15
Потребителят е неактивен   gimbly 

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Е няма спор признах те :) Само дето повечето от нещата дето си ги показал е или трудно да се направят или доста от частите и вентилаторите ги нама на пазара у нас.Аз съм много запален по моговете дори съм си моднал и моя комп, така че съм запознат с доста сайтове от сорта.За съжаление само не мога да кача снимките на моето ПЦ в нета защото не знам как да си направя сайт :) (Срам :) )Но все някога ще се науча:)А м/у другото за тия модове ти трябва доста стабилно захранване.Защото аз имам 3 свещи вентилатора по кутията и светещ CM Jet7 на процесора и без моя Forton 300W беше невъзможно да ги захраня.Но сега съм доволен.Дори си пребоядисах и кутията и си вградих записвачките:)
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#16
Потребителят е неактивен   leshi 

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ето една полезна страница за направа на светещ вентилатор- :) http://mods.hardware...wto/fan/fan.htm
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#17
Потребителят е неактивен   jman 

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BoKo,евала ти праим за темата пич.Голямо 10X,продалжавай в същия дух 8)
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#18
Потребителят е неактивен   exitman 

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дайте още де :(
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Потребителят е неактивен   todorir 

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Моднатата ми кутийка
Дано ви хареса, обожавам синия цвят.
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Потребителят е неактивен   didoriginal 

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todorir каза:

Моднатата ми кутийка
Дано ви хареса, обожавам синия цвят.


Добре направена! :) Я само дай акъл как си вързал диодите??? Аз имам POWER LED син, ама той се захранва от дъното... Към 12-те ли си ги вързал?
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